top of page

Córdoba Pictures

  • Writer: connorbevanband
    connorbevanband
  • Mar 16, 2015
  • 13 min read

After going to Córdoba for a university field trip I thought I would upload the monstrous amount of photos I took here, adding general historical background information, humourous anecdotes and my insightful wisdom to each picture. I'll be most likley writing a piece here on faith relations in Córdoba's so called 'Golden Age'. Since I'm writing an assignment on it anyway so much of the commentary here will reflect a few of my points. Yes, there are selfies (although mostly not taken by me).

Us at Bristol Airport before leaving... utilising Lucy's inescapable selfie stick.

FB_IMG_1425988725634.jpg

Leaving from Bristol Airport very early the morning and extremely exhausted. The view over the Bristol Channel.

IMG_20150310_064422444.jpg

A rather dismal looking English countryside.

IMG_20150310_064650976.jpg

Started reading AC Grayling's The God Argument as we left an increasingly misty England.

IMG_20150310_064747059.jpg

After waking up to the realisation that my ears don't do very well with pressure I began scoffing skittles at an alarming rate to try and reduce the agonising pain.

IMG_20150310_065230600.jpg

Southern Spain, much more interesting than Cornish farmland.

IMG_20150310_084139698.jpg

More of Spain.

IMG_20150310_084238799.jpg

Finally arrived to a very warm Córdoba.

Snapchat-803505311894873294_edited.jpg

A huge big ass rock. Most of Southern Spain seems to be hills and huge big ass birds that make even bigger huge big ass nests on telephone lines.

Snapchat-3323380872632599252.jpg

The street outide the hotel. Ended up playing singing and playing blues guitar to some Spanish people out here followed by attempting to play harmonica to Flamenco and an even worse attempt at speaking Spanish. Lauren and Connor also joined me in playing guitar to the locals. It was mostly souvenir shops around the Mesquita, which I bought entirely too many things from.

IMG_20150310_140009537.jpg

Enjoying a pint at the Hotel Los Patios once we arrived. The night porter here was a grumpy sod.

FB_IMG_1426002846013.jpg

Yes, a selfie of me - The only one I took thankfully. Wearing my Jesus shirt.

Snapchat--7366043618396378075.jpg

Went for a walk shortly after I arrived. Little did I know the notorious Mesquita bell tower would keep me up every night. Went for a walk around the old Jewish Quarter with my lecturers. I've never seen a place more beautiful, photogenic and culturally bathed in history.

IMG_20150310_143019252.jpg

The Faculty of Philosophy and Letters (languages) where the nicest and freshest hamburgers are about two euros. Wish the University of Gloucestershire was like this.

IMG_20150310_143837187.jpg

It also has free WiFi and very cheap beer.

IMG_20150310_143919754.jpg

Every man and his dog here has a fiddle or a guitar. A bit like Cheltenham... only good.

IMG_20150310_144649605.jpg

I don't think I ever got used to seeing Orange trees in every street. Apparently they're very good for marmalade as they're too bitter to eat or drink without sugar. I threw one at Tom.

IMG_20150310_144831918.jpg

A dodgy looking Church. Sat and had a drink here with Lecturers.

IMG_20150310_145100502.jpg

A dodgy looking Theatre.

IMG_20150310_145505151.jpg

I'll never getting used to seeeing palm trees on every street either.

IMG_20150310_154818546.jpg

I have a feeling this is lost in translation a little.

IMG_20150310_160433487.jpg

My bed on the left... sharing a room with Tom.

IMG_20150310_162629031.jpg

Got kind of lost during a philosophical, theological and ethical debate about numinoscity, moral relativism and rationality.

IMG_20150310_181305623.jpg

Then finally found where we were meeting for dinner.

IMG_20150310_184839677.jpg

The next morning we crossed the Roman bridge and went to the Torre de la Calahorra, a national monument built by the Almohads to defend the river.

IMG_20150311_095814737.jpg

A river, made of water.

IMG_20150311_095833413.jpg

You can just about make out the Mesquita (the huge building in the top left corner) next to the hotel and across the bridge the Calahorra Tower.

IMG_20150311_100504854.jpg

Not a bad effort of an early depiction of Europe considering some other cartographical attempts I've seen from that period... No idea why Britain looks like a teapot though.

IMG_20150311_102846746.jpg

Looks like my rug at home.

IMG_20150311_103446869.jpg

Came out bad but this picture was included to show the apparently amazing and harmonoius relations enjoyed by the semtic religions of both East and West in unity. Seemingly no violence or persecution took place in Spain's Golden Age and intellectual achievments and collaborative effort on language, theology, medicine, scienfitic enquiry, astronomy, art, architecture and gastronomy were testimony to this... not quite.

IMG_20150311_103544269.jpg

In this room I was subjected to conjecture concerning how the Al Hambra at Córdoba was built in order to poetically and architecturally reflect the majestic eternal gyration of the universe.

IMG_20150311_103908504.jpg

A model displaying how the interior of the Mesquita should look, with its 900 collums and no huge tacky cathedral built into its centre.

IMG_20150311_104718568.jpg

A view from the Torre de la Calahorra of the Roman Bridge. Apparently in 1369 the tower was restored from its state under Islamic rule by King Henry II of Castile.

IMG_20150311_104859004.jpg

A room tributed to intellectual achievements and a celebration of the love of rational sciences and Greek thought... I have no idea what this geezer is trying to do, this doesn't strike me as intellectual... this clearly isn't going to achieve anything. Wait... Eilmer is that you?

IMG_20150311_105159295.jpg

The view overlooking the river from the Calahorra tower with the ancient water wheel on the bank.

IMG_20150311_105529953.jpg

Models of figures including Maimonides and Alfonso X accompanied with audio telling of how everybody got on nicely and there was absolutely no killing whatsoever... Possibly the most politically motivated museum in Spain. It would seem Alfonso X El Sabio was in fact the nicest person in history, deprived from his position for being just so amazingly lovely. As well as faith relations apparently these intellctuals were ahead of their time as femenists. I don't think that accurately reflects religious interaction by any stretch of the imagination. Though the collaborative intellectual effort is noteworthy and there are particular instances whereby these cooperations weren't entirely predicated on personal benefit.

Snapchat--7867362360314495617.jpg

Most of everybody atop the Calahorra tower.

FB_IMG_1426172532917.jpg

Me rocking it on top of the tower with Chris, Lucy, Lauren and Jo.

FB_IMG_1426190285374.jpg

Some geez who seemingly had to gob every few yards of trotting with his stede with the most tedious and boring job in all of Spain. Will and Dave looking suitably horrified.

IMG_20150311_114514366.jpg

The second place of the second day - The Alcázar de los Reyes Christianos, the palace where Christian Kings would stay when visiting Córdoba.

IMG_20150311_115446319.jpg

Most of the Alcázar is intact from it's construction in 1328 by King Alfonso XI. It was used as a prison at some point in history also.

IMG_20150311_115526484.jpg

I'll be honest this place wasn't great, it was falling to bits.

IMG_20150311_115959002.jpg

Medusa. There are very clear and disctinctive Greco-Roman as well as Islamic influences percievable throughout most of the monuments.

IMG_20150311_120049642.jpg

A huge ass palm tree.

IMG_20150311_120955755.jpg

A view from atop the Alcázar after climbing the most uneven and steep set of stairs. Apparently stairs are built in this way so potentail attackers can't build up any momentous rythmn whilst besieging... I suppose it wouldn't help either if all the guards had sprained ankles and a stitch.

IMG_20150311_121015664.jpg

A view of the Roman bridge from the Alcázar.

IMG_20150311_121058464.jpg

A view of the gardens of the Alcázar. There's a light show here at night which is pretty cool as well as loads of lemon trees at some time of the year.

IMG_20150311_121111693.jpg

Some huge ass fish.

IMG_20150311_121531621.jpg

The gardens here are beautiful... apparently some twat fell in here last year.

IMG_20150311_122038045.jpg

The palace area was originally a Visigoth fortress, then conquered by the Umayyad Caliphate and then eventually rebuilt by Christian conquerers. It was then used extensively during a civil war, by Ferdinand II of Aragon and Isabella I of Castile, Christopher Columbus and Napoleon Bonaparte's troops.

IMG_20150311_123633009.jpg

A bunch of us in the gardens of the Alcázar.

11071776_977759178915620_8249485111023989627_n (1).jpg

The same bunch, each one looking more ridiculous than the last.

1907594_977759118915626_2121548821458888017_n.jpg

The banter squad. Connor, Lewis, Megan and I.

10525981_977758808915657_4471572783277003904_n.jpg

The third place on the first day - The Archeological Museum seemed to be more sensitive to the reality of faith relations in Córdoba as well as acknowledging a high level of cultural exchange between faiths as both seats of Islamic and Christian power. Noted especially were the violence surrounding Islam and Christianity and the foundational influence of Roman art, music and culture within Christianity, and the Roman cultural distinction from Islam. This is Pegasus.

IMG_20150311_134458733.jpg

Before Christianity and Islam became the significant religions people subscribed to a multitude of Roman mystery religions such as Mithraism, the cult of Cybele and Isis as well as prehistoric Iberian ritualistic and nature worshiping religions and cults. Magical superstition, sacrifice, Judaism and eventually Christianity would come across from Africa and the Holy Land. Despite the hostlity of Christianity many found it extremely appealing. Once the Iberian peoples were conquered by the Islamic Caliphate, the land would be retaken by Christian reconquistadors.

IMG_20150311_135311564.jpg

The oppresive security guards at this museum resembled Nazi SS guards as they tyrannically shushed anybody who dared speak... as if history should ever encourage discussion.

IMG_20150311_135640096.jpg

Found a little note from my girlfriend whilst having a meal outside the museum. I retaliated by buying her a Morrocan lamp.

IMG_20150311_145045217.jpg

Chris and I having a drink outside the Archeological Museum.

FB_IMG_1426190291391.jpg

Having lunch with Chris, Jo, Lucy and Lauren... and looking worried.

11066704_10153085015437209_3154027074643888542_n.jpg

Sat in a lecture by Roy on Hayy ign Yaqzan at the University of Córdoba.

11046719_10202869377175692_9039958243876739455_o.jpg

Still on the second day (just). Took this picture while out for a drink. Surprisng amount of Roman ruins around.

IMG_20150311_232427655.jpg

A rowdy bunch of us on a night out.

FB_IMG_1426190305841.jpg

Still have no idea of the significance of this statue although I passed it several times.

IMG_20150312_241316714.jpg

The third day. A walk around the old Jewish Quarter. This is apparently a famous view of the Mesquita tower. Since their expulsion and persecution at the hands of Christian monarchs only 10 Jewish families remain.

IMG_20150312_091445146.jpg

Only a marginal 1000 Muslims now live in Córdoba. This is the current Mosque they now worship in.

IMG_20150312_092340705.jpg

The Jewish Philosopher Maimonides, mentioned extensively in many of the museums, born in Córdoba. Somehow I don't think he'd appreciate this statue considering his views on idolatry and representations of the human self. After facing hostility regarding his philosophy and theology under the Almohads he fled to Cairo and was recieved as a doctor at the court there and produced 40 books of medicine. Apparently if you rub his shiny shoes you are imparted with some of his wisdom... you also look like a twat.

IMG_20150312_093642954.jpg

The only remaining Synagogue not to be destroyed or converted beyond at least partial restoration in Córdoba; now as a tiny museum. Here is the Menorah. Alongside the Mesquita it probably inspired the most awe and reverance of any place I visited.

IMG_20150312_094118615.jpg

Muslim made decorations for the Synagogue, another example of faith relations.

IMG_20150312_094156802.jpg

The 16th century bell tower of the Mesquita woke me up at some point every night. Apparently the archangel Raphael stands guard over the city, eternally watching the city, protecting from plague and other dangers with a statue atop the tower. I wonder if he protects from a poor night's sleep?

IMG_20150312_095519138.jpg

The interior of the Mesquita, the old mosque of Córdoba. Having undergone several conquests and extensions it is now a place of Catholic worship. With its orange tree gardens and 900 collumns it was modelled on Mohammed's Medina residence. The once open entrances are now blocked by Christian chapels.

IMG_20150312_101750652.jpg

Archeological evidence beneath the Mesquita suggests it was a Roman temple beforehand.

IMG_20150312_102126390.jpg

Before the addition of the cathedral, chapels and altars within the Mesquita it gave off a unique architectural optical effect giving the appearance of an endless structure. This effect is now reduced by the presence of these additions.

IMG_20150312_102236509.jpg

The addition of the obtrusive, clumsily placed and quite frankly tacky cathedral inside was a decision endorsed by the Emperor of the time. When the presiding bishop under Ferdinand III was dissatisfied with the small chapel on the inside of the building he petitioned to the Emperor for the commsion of the construction of a Cathedral. When the Emperor eventually saw the building in person he regretted his decision immediately and wept for the fact he had ruined a unique and magnificent monument.

IMG_20150312_102902745.jpg

Even after its conversion to a cathedral it continued to be decorated by Muslim artisans.

IMG_20150312_104146065.jpg

One of the only truly and explicitly Islamic aspects remaining within the Mesquita - where the Imam would direct prayer.

IMG_20150312_104412555.jpg

A quite frankly vain and obsessively extravagant mausoleum to one of the bishops, housing many relics and treasures too.

IMG_20150312_104844439.jpg

A huge golden thing. People say humanism and a rational and compassionate society is optimistic but the tenacity of effort it took to build things like this clearly indicates how human beings aren't as useless as we might believe. Quite frankly the audacity of Catholic sensibilities has always baffled me; of all the interpretaions and manifestations of Christianity it seems to be in the most stark contrast to biblical scripture. At no point is a massive church, heirarchical politicalisation, militancy and hoarding of wealth warranted by any theological interpretation of Christ, whether religious or not. Still, it remains impressive.

IMG_20150312_104855460.jpg

A huge organ. Apparently, although an eyesore and invasive - the inclusion of the cathedral possibly saved the Mosque from demolition entirely. An ironic paradox of history.

IMG_20150312_110018352.jpg

The active Catholic section of the Mesquita. Apparently only 25% of Spain's population are practicing Catholics, the rest culturally enjoy the festivals.

IMG_20150312_110106550.jpg

Segways are perhaps the most ridiculous inventions of modernity. Despite this they seem stupidly popular in Spain.

IMG_20150312_124609872.jpg

Still in the third day. Visited the Bathhouse of the Caliphs, a small undeground museum mistaken for a car park on earlier trips. Here is the site of the furnace.

IMG_20150312_131500628.jpg

The baths were private, public and royal. A bathhouse was a symbol of a city's importance; the more bathhouses, the more important a city's status.

IMG_20150312_131706311.jpg

Rediscovered in 1903 it was used by the Umayyad Caliphate and was utilised for political meetings, discussions, assasinations and soapy massages.

IMG_20150312_132500816.jpg

Lucy and I somewhere.

10398657_10153085019677209_5724406394755893876_n.jpg

The Museum of Jewish Life is dedicated to preserving the cultural legacy of Jewish gastronomy, clothing, art, philosophy, language, music, science, medicine and literature in Córdoba and the rest of Spain as well as its persecution. Built in what once was a 14th century Jewish house and a Synagogue it is the only place in Córdoba to house the Torah and therefore be eligable for a place of worship. After pogroms and similiar incidents of violence (such as the one in 1473) the Jews were expelled in 1493.

IMG_20150312_140751348.jpg

These books display one of the many ways in which Jews would continue to practice their religion in subterfuge during their persecution and forced conversion. The museum also highlights the role of the Maimonides, women and the Christian inquisition which Catholics often find controversial. Policing faith, the inquisition went about mudering, exposing and humiliating any heretics, especially the Sephardi Jews of Córdoba. The Jewish rose as a target due to their social and economic status and in some cases, protection. Their cosmetic and hygenic interests (as it did with Muslims) often saved them from death at the hands of disease whereas the jealous Catholics who had yet to confront such realities of cleanliness and medicine suffered. Subsequently claims of witchcraft and poisoning were attributed to these incidents and did much to fuel Anti-Semitism. The more Jews that converted under pressure, the less power was held by the remainder.

IMG_20150312_141603719.jpg

Our tour guide Alex who passionately took us through the galleries; he even sang two songs for us.

IMG_20150312_143817172.jpg

This individual seemed to think it would be a good idea to climb up onto this wall and lie on the narrow ledge in the sun, legs folded parralel to his back... Dear god.

IMG_20150312_150439896.jpg

The fourth day. Arriving at the train station to go to Seville we saw the aftermath of an Indignados strike.

IMG_20150313_080641957.jpg

Arrived at Seville early in the morning, looking gradually more scruffy, tired and unshaven as the days went on.

IMG_20150313_103418674.jpg

The first stop in Seville was the Reales Alcázares de Sevilla, the famous Royal Alcázar of Seville. This one is much larger than the one in Córdoba, with lots of Gardens.

IMG_20150313_105521571.jpg

Will, Dave and Melissa. Dave looking exceptionally pleased with the tremendous effort it took to get us inside the Alcázar.

1909191_10153049665330999_2969400314635335431_o.jpg

Surprising how easy it is to miss the ceilings in these places.

IMG_20150313_105731951.jpg

And of course the Islamic influence on the design of said ceilings.

IMG_20150313_110413884.jpg

The Alcázar is characterised by a wealth of pools and gardens and was used by both Alfonso XI and King Peter as well as many other historical figures. It's famous for its many gardens, one of which I seem to remember was an English gift, another being a maze.

IMG_20150313_110432841.jpg

Me looking shattered and monged out with Lucy and Jo.

FB_IMG_1426287540655.jpg

Built in the 1300s it has seen many reconstructions, extensions and uses throughout different periods of history. The site was originally a Moorish fort and is now a national heritage site.

IMG_20150313_110457827.jpg

The Alcázar houses the world's only musical hydraulic fountain from the XVII century, with only one man alive with the expertise to not only restore it but maintain it.

IMG_20150313_111200267.jpg

I have never seen a bunch of kids more excited than this. At first I wasn't sure if the squeals were in terror or amazement but apparently fish are very very funny.

IMG_20150313_111244334.jpg

A pavillion built to honour the marriage of Charles X.

IMG_20150313_112427540.jpg

These guys are charged with the task of twatting oranges from trees... judging by the look of scorn on their faces I'd say it was the Spanish equivalent of being a binman.

IMG_20150313_113929725.jpg

As the day began to warm up we headed over to the Cathedral.

IMG_20150313_123633628.jpg

The amount of beggars, musicians, segway promoters and carriage drivers that approach you in Seville is staggering.

IMG_20150313_123740339.jpg

The entrance to the cathedral.

IMG_20150313_123942029.jpg

The enormity of the cathedral is staggering and utterly incomprehensible.

IMG_20150313_124933217.jpg

Possibly the most terrifying organ (or any instrument for that matter) in existence.

IMG_20150313_125013272.jpg

The most extravagent, arrogant and magnificient place of worship I have ever seen. It was even equipped with a floor mirror angled so that one can see themselves in front of the intricately decorated and tremendously high ceiling.

IMG_20150313_125117492.jpg

An altar. A monstrous display of confidence and wealth. It is worth noting that the cathedral was built on the site of a mosque, as is the tendancy for Christian houses of worship to be built over the houses of others.

IMG_20150313_125351645.jpg

Another golden thing. The hypocricy that such an object could be made from a religion that preaches charity and where wealth is an obstacle to faith is evident.

IMG_20150313_130149051.jpg

A crucifix housed in the treasury of the cathedral, alongside similar relics.

IMG_20150313_130403723.jpg

A bell tower... with a staggering climb to it. I was in a selfie video with a bunch of Americans the whole way down. They're going to get home and say 'who's that bearded British guy looking horrified at the back?'.

IMG_20150313_131628189.jpg

A view from atop the bell tower. Seville is much larger and more important than Córdob and much less archaic, but still very nice.

IMG_20150313_131707602.jpg

Another view of Seville.

IMG_20150313_131712174.jpg

The rest of the cathedral from atop the tower.

IMG_20150313_131808079.jpg

More of the cathedral and its exterior.

IMG_20150313_131811316.jpg

The Alcázar and its gardens from the bell tower.

IMG_20150313_131935375.jpg

The Spanish are just as rowdy as us. I found this immaturity whilst walking around Seville.

IMG_20150313_151335491.jpg

Myself having lunch in Seville, looking henious.

11059363_10153087704142209_258775070074698098_n.jpg

The Torre del Oro, Tower of Gold in Seville... Not very golden. A watchtower that is now a naval museum and it fact one of the more frequently photographed buildings in Seville.

IMG_20150313_180934638.jpg

Sat and had a drink here by the river and discussed music as well as the ontology of being.

IMG_20150313_183824035.jpg

Heading back from Seville, shortly before everybody crashed. This was originally supposed to be a selfie contained just in our compartment but Chris decided to inform the whole train.

10690090_10153087710562209_5225824304122626555_n.jpg

The fifth day. Headed to Madinat Al-Zahra, the ruined city of the Caliphs. Built by the Umuyyad dynasty as a palace-city it lies 8 miles west of Córdoba. Essentially meaning 'City of the Flower' it was built under the reign of Abd-ar-Rahman III al-Nasir in 936 yet only stood for around 80 years. Eventually it would be extended by Al-Hakam II until 1010 whereupon it was sacked during a civil war and its materials used elsewhere.

IMG_20150314_115753516.jpg

It was built in an essential and significant area for travellers; in the foothills commanding good views.

IMG_20150314_115755915.jpg

Much of the city, having been excavated, has been artificially reconstructed but the foundations and divisions remain.

IMG_20150314_120056071.jpg

At the Madinat Al-Zahra, looking very scruffy with Sophie, Emma, Lucy and Chris.

FB_IMG_1426344694052.jpg

The upper quarters of the city.

IMG_20150314_121922979.jpg

It's easy to see how Lewis sprained his ankle within 5 minutes of walking here.

IMG_20150314_122811839.jpg

Back in Córdoba, still the fifth day. Nearly finished. Here's a newt.

IMG_20150314_152504211.jpg

Decided to scale the Mesquita bell tower as one last act before I packed and left the next morning. I conquered it in retaliation for it keeping me up every night, spending my last two euros wisely.

IMG_20150314_180017134.jpg

The gardens of the Mesquita from the bell tower.

IMG_20150314_180022277.jpg

The view of Córdoba as the sun went down.

IMG_20150314_180604394.jpg

The next morning, just before leaving Malaga. Dave destroying a muffin.

10980723_10204082444325583_590136660728685326_n.jpg

Flying away from Spain. Thankfully my ears weren't so bad this time; Will bought me chewing gum.

IMG_20150315_104908406.jpg


 
 
 

Commentaires


WELCOME TO THE CAVE:

 

This is a blog concerning all things of a philosophical, ethical or religious nature written by a university student. There are some thoughts and ideas I have while reading, travelling or drinking as well as dialogues between friends and I. Then there are some extremely dry pieces written for university. Essentially they often express a rationalist and athiestic standpoint. I strongly recommend you read the about section as well as the few articles concerning my hopes and aims for this blog. Cheers for reading.

OTHER USEFUL LINKS:                 

 

University of Gloucestershire Religion, Philosophy & Ethics Blog: http://r-p-e.blogspot.co.uk/

 

Uni of Glos RPE Facebook Group: https://www.facebook.com/groups/RPEglos/?fref=ts

 

Uni of Glos RPE on Twitterhttps://twitter.com/rpeatglos

 

Gloucestershire Philosophical Society:  http://www.glosphilsoc.co.uk/

 

Gloucestershire Philosophical Society on Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/groups/34862694175/?fref=ts

 

Project Reason:

http://www.project-reason.org/

 FOLLOW THE CAVE: 
  • Twitter B&W
 RECENT POSTS: 

© 2015 by The Cave, Connor Bevan. Proudly created with Wix.com

  • Twitter B&W
bottom of page